| THE RACQUET
There is a wide range of racquets, but which do you choose? Brands
such as Carlton, ProKennex and Yonex have proven their worth down the years,
but what is most important when you walk into a shop and pick up a racquet
is its weight, handle, grip and overall feel. Does it feel
right?
Carbon, boron and other expensive materials give the top racquets lightness,
strength and durability with the ability to produce speed, power and flexibility.
In general you get what you pay for.
Racquets at the cheaper end of the scale will tend to be heavier, and
will be strung with less hard-wearing and lower-tension strings. Some players
prefer a heavier racquet, but the general rule is the lighter the better.
Grip is crucial. Small grips are best for small hands and large grips
for large hands. Most handles are between three-and-a-half and three-and-five-eighths
inches in circumference.
Many players build up their grip size by adding extra wrap-around towelling
grips. Why? Because racquet-head speed is generated by using short,
fast strokes and a larger grip gives more effective transfer of power from
arm to racquet. It can also mean less strain and injuries to the forearm,
elbow, upper arm and shoulder.
SHOES, SHIRTS, SHORTS AND SKIRTS:
Badminton wear is designed to be light and allow for ease and full range
of movement. There are numerous proprietary-designed garments on the market.
The particular demands of badminton make it essential to ensure that shirts/tops
are not too tight around the shoulders.
Design has evolved gradually over the years, and there is now a badminton
shoe. The heel area should be well-padded around the sole to absorb the
impact of landing from a jump. The heel tab area should be cut low
to reduce the risk of rubbing against the Achilles tendon while still giving
ample support. The sole of the shoe should have plenty of gripping edges
or serrations to prevent slipping. In addition, the sole should be wedge-shaped
from front to back and should be thicker at the back. The shoe should be
light and well-balanced but look durable and well-made.
SHUTTLECOCKS
The base of the shuttle should be made of cork or cork-substitute covered
with leather. Feathered shuttles were always thought better than the synthetic
variety because they were lighter off the racquet and gave more control,
but advances in synthetic design over recent years have seen the gap close.
Feather shuttles tend to be more expensive and the goose feathers can be
easily broken. For beginners learning the game, synthetic is probably best.
16 feathers are used to make a shuttle and the best shuttles are made
up of the feathers from the left wing of the goose.
Standards in manufacturing can vary, and it is always best to test the
shuttle flight, whether feather or synthetic. As a general rule, if you
stand on one back boundary line you ought to be able to hit the shuttle
with an underarm stroke over the net and close to the opposite long service
line.
Beware of shuttles which 'wobble' in flight. These are poor quality
or faulty and should be returned or discarded.
| Speed
Chart |
 |
| international |
metric
wt. |
grain |
description |
| 1 |
48 |
75 |
slow, for use in
highland |
| 2 |
49 |
76 |
medium slow, for
use in hotter area |
| 3 |
50 |
77 |
medium, most sea
level area |
| 4 |
51 |
78 |
medium fast, cold
area |
| 5 |
52 |
79 |
fast, cold area,
below sea level |
Speed of Shuttlecock is one of the key factor. A shuttlecock which
is good in Hong Kong may not be good to use in London. Because there's
differences in temperature; humidity; altitude and air pressure etc.
In an IBF tournament, most of the Chief Referee will test up to 3 different
speed of shuttlecocks to ensure that particular speed is right for that
particular place at that particular time.
Fast or slow do not represent the quality of the shuttlecock.
But, of course, the consumer has the right to choose.
Table above is the 3 most common system using right now:
|